Our Mediterranean Sea Adventure Pt. 4 – Greece

Greece is a popular destination for travellers. It has beautiful blue waters, ancient ruins and beautiful islands. It’s a perfect mix of history, culture and nature.

It is hard to sum up the last nine months. We hadn’t originally planned to go to Greece, but living on a boat means you have to be flexible. And we’re glad it worked out this way! Greece has been fantastic for us.

Our first impression of Greece: The Diapontia Islands

July 2023.
The adventure started in Leuca, Italy, with strong winds leading us to Othonoi, part of the Diapontia Islands. The island welcomed us with the sweet scent of nature and green mountains. The bay, protected from the north-west wind, felt like a hidden gem.
It served as the perfect starting point for our Greek sailing adventure.

Sailing towards Ereikoussa, we were thrilled to spot over twenty dolphins, bringing immense joy to our journey with their playful jumps and cheerful whistles. We anchored in a stunning bay and enjoyed snorkelling in the crystal clear waters.
Walking trails through olive groves, cypress trees, and fields of wildflowers created a peaceful landscape filled with the delightful scent of herbs.
Despite being on the smaller Diapontia Islands, we found that many locals spoke English, adding an extra layer of enjoyment to our experience.

Unexpected twists on Corfu

On a calm day, we sailed peacefully to the north coast of Corfu. The stunning white cliffs of Cape Drastis caught our eye and we took a break to explore. At sunset, I had an exciting solo trip in our small boat and even saw a large turtle.

During the hot midday at Vroulias Bay, near Kogevina Beach, we found shade under our bimini and took refreshing dips in the sea. The view of the bay, surrounded by villas and hotels, was surprisingly calm, with only one other boat anchored.
The evening grew cooler as we took our small boat to Kassiopi, a nearby fishing village known for its tavernas and shops. Unfortunately, there was a nearby forest fire, which turned the sky orange in the dark, leaving us feeling sad for the environment and the local community.

The bay of Corfu town was busy with over 100 boats including super yachts, sailing boats and motor vessels. Even with all the boats, the large bay provided a great view of the old fortress.
After anchoring, we walked around the town, leaving our dinghy at the dock by the steps. We found lovely little shops and cafes along the narrow lanes.
Corfu is rich in history, culture and natural beauty. The old town, which has been recognised by UNESCO, has Venetian, French and British influences. You won’t find modern skyscrapers here, which is a relief.
Food lovers are in heaven in Corfu, with dishes such as moussaka, souvlaki and seafood, as well as Italian and French options. Our dinner at Pane e Souvlaki, enjoying traditional Greek food on a small balcony, added a romantic touch to our stay.

Leaving Corfu town, we took El Burro out of the busy bay. Once out on the open sea, we hoisted our sails and headed south, coping with the unpredictable winds that often forced us to switch between engine and sails.
As we approached our chosen anchorage, we saw that it was too crowded, so we chose an empty cove close to the shore with very clear water. We jumped in to make sure our anchor was firmly set in the sandy bottom.
Surprisingly we saw a thunderstorm at sunset, but fortunately the nearest lightning was still a kilometre away.

Anchoring challenges and finding serenity in Karavi Bay

The original plan to anchor off Paxos changed due to crowded bays, so we sailed to Antipaxos and found a good spot in Karavi Bay. We had to use ropes to tie our boat to the shore and received helpful tips from our neighbours. Despite the narrow bay and the presence of boats during the day, Karavi Bay was great for snorkelling with an old mine at the bottom of the sea and many different species of fish.

Serene sailing to Kastrosykia

Enjoying the gentle breeze, we had a great day of sailing. We took our time, letting the wind guide us.
We anchored in a quiet bay called Kastrosykia. In the evening there was a slight rocking, which was a little uncomfortable. However, as the night went on, the conditions improved and we had a more peaceful time on the water.

Exploring the Lefkada Canal and a longer stay in Nydri

After a nice sail, we reached the entrance of the Lefkada Canal, where many other boats gathered. This narrow stretch of water separates the island of Lefkada from the Greek mainland. As the bridge opened for us, it felt like a step back in time to our canal trips in France, with herons and cormorants all around. The calm waters and beautiful surroundings were like a mix of Lake Como and the Camargue.
We anchored in a quiet bay that felt more like an idyllic lake than the open sea. It was incredibly peaceful.

When we arrived in Nydri, Tranquil Bay was not as calm as its name suggests – there was chaos and many shipwrecks. We sailed a bit further and stayed in Vliho Bay for 10 days. It was crowded, but we still found some privacy. The water wasn’t clear, so it wasn’t good for swimming or dropping keys (if you find ours, please contact us).
Despite the busy tourist atmosphere, Nydri had good facilities for sailors. We found a supermarket, a chandlery, a hardware store and a great restaurant. We walked to the waterfalls, which were refreshing but crowded. During a spectacular thunderstorm we gave our boat a salt-free makeover.
In Nydri we met Elena and Ben from Ohana and invited them over for a drink. It was a fun evening. The next day we arranged a cat date for Nelly and their cat, Findus, but Nelly was not having any of it.

Playful pigs and surprise visitors in Atokos

Our original plan wasn’t to sail all the way from Lefkada to Atokos, but crowded bays along the way changed our course. Arriving late in Atokos, we found it difficult to anchor and almost collided with a motor yacht. Fortunately we were able to secure our boat before sunset.
During dinner in the cockpit we were surprised by a giant praying mantis. I quickly went inside, while the mantis took shelter on our bimini.

The next day we awoke to pigs of all sizes on the beach. Exploring in the dinghy, we got very close to the friendly pigs, watching them swim and play.
We went snorkelling and saw lots of fish and even a moray eel. After a peaceful night we hoisted the anchor and were ready to move on.

From dawn to dusk in Kastos

At dawn we set sail from Atokos and hoisted our headsail. On the way we found a surprising stowaway – a praying mantis who joined our adventure. When we reached Kastos in the early hours of the morning, the bay was pretty empty. We anchored, tied our boat to the rocks with long lines and watched as the bay filled with charter boats.

After relaxing on the boat, we took Mannie, our praying mantis friend, ashore in our dinghy. We put Mannie in a tree and then walked to a windmill where we had drinks on the terrace with a fantastic view. We then returned to the boat and went snorkelling in the very clear water where we saw many different species of fish, including a Red Mediterranean Fireworm.

Feeling safe at our anchorage, we decided to stay for two more nights in this beautiful place.

Sunset serenade in Astakos

Unexpectedly, luck struck again when the bait clicker on the reel came to life. Celebrating another successful catch, a bonito. Our filleting process went much smoother than before, keeping our cockpit clean.

Heading for Astakos, we anchored in the bay, rowed our dinghy ashore for a walk and enjoyed lunch. Returning to the boat, we experienced strong winds in the afternoon.
As the sun set, we enjoyed the soothing music of a live Greek band on the beach, which made our cockpit a lovely place to be.

A day of solitude in Petalas

We found perfect peace in a quiet place with no boats, restaurants or beach clubs, just us and nature. We saw fish jumping high out of the green water.
As the afternoon wore on, strong winds brought a refreshing coolness to the heat. In the evening, under a beautiful starry sky, we heard mysterious breathing in the water near our boat. It was too dark to see, so we wondered if it was a turtle or some other aquatic creature.

River inlets and stunning sunsets at Ormos Skrofa

It was a great day for sailing and we didn’t need the engine much. We only set sail when we were almost at our chosen anchorage. On the way I saw a turtle and called excitedly, but it quickly disappeared under the water.

Later we took our little boat to a river inlet at Ormos Skrofa. There we saw cows, fishermen, jumping fish and watched a beautiful sunset. It was another amazing day in paradise.

Coping with heat waves and strong winds in Missolonghi

We set off early and arrived in Missolonghi around midday. The colourful houses and docks along the canal caught our attention, and we even saw pelicans in the distance.

The water at our anchorage looked a little murky with floating grass, but the locals seemed unfazed. Some even spent the whole day in the water. Despite reading mixed reviews, we found the village charming. We explored the streets and in the evening enjoyed a delicious pizza on a terrace overlooking the anchorage and our boat.

The next day the temperature rose to almost 37 degrees and there was a forecast of strong winds. However, smoke from the ongoing forest fires clouded the sky and created a hazy atmosphere in the bay. We took our clothes to the laundry and spent the rest of the scorching day staying cool. In the evening we explored the salt lakes in our dinghy.

We got up early and walked to Lidl to stock up on food, avoiding the hottest part of the day. With temperatures reaching 38 degrees, we kept our activities to a minimum in the afternoon. In the evening we docked to top up our water tank before returning to our anchorage. Even at night the temperature remained 30 degrees.

As we lifted our anchor, a graceful formation of flamingos took flight above us. It was time to move on.

Mountain mystique at Kryoneri

We were anchored near a large mountain. The wind there could be unpredictable – sometimes it was light, sometimes it was strong, blowing down from the mountain. At night it was completely quiet as the wind died down.

Occasionally a turtle would appear beside our boat. When we jumped into the water it quickly disappeared. Maybe that was for the best as I’m not really brave when it comes to swimming around large sea creatures.

The water wasn’t very clear due to the cold fresh water mixing with the salty water. This made the visibility go from clear to a bit blurry. But it was refreshing after another super hot day!

Sailing Under the Rion-Antirion Bridge and Navigating Nafpaktos’ Unexpected Storms

We set sail with a light breeze. When the wind died down, the engine took over. Following instructions from traffic control, we navigated towards the northern passage via the Rion-Antirion bridge.

Some facts about this masterpiece of engineering:

• The Rion-Antirion Bridge spans the Gulf of Corinth, connecting the Peloponnese peninsula with mainland Greece. The bridge has a total length of 2880 metres, making it one of the longest cable-stayed bridges in the world!

• Construction began in 1998 and was completed in 2004, making it a relatively modern engineering marvel. The project faced significant challenges due to the region’s seismic activity and the turbulent waters of the Gulf of Corinth.

• As the region is prone to earthquakes, advanced seismic technology was incorporated into the design and construction of the bridge. It can withstand earthquakes of significant magnitude. It includes expansion joints, pendulum bearings and other mechanisms to accommodate movement and seismic activity.

The day was warm and calm until we approached Nafpaktos, where we were greeted by a ten knot north easterly, accompanied by distant thunder. Although other boats were anchored, we found the perfect spot just off the entrance to the harbour.

In the evening, a sudden downpour surprised us ashore, but we were grateful to have the boat’s hatch closed. When we returned, a thunderstorm with lightning added to the drama, and heavy rain washed the boat clean.

Later on shore, we enjoyed a lively performance by a Greek reggae band Locomondo. The bustling city, cool temperatures and a gentle breeze made for a pleasant night after days of sweltering heat.

Thunderstorms, dolphins, and a red beach at Trizonia

As the wind picked up to 20 knots, we adjusted our course but ended up on the wrong side of the bay. We tacked to correct our direction. Storm clouds appeared on the horizon and Nelly, our cat, predicted the approaching storm. Taking shelter, we endured heavy rain until the wind died down and Nelly reappeared to signal the end of the storm.

Arriving at a crowded anchorage, we found a spot on the free jetty where we stayed for two nights. A walk to the red beach was a little underwhelming, but we enjoyed feeding stray cats and taking a dinghy trip around the island. On the way back we were joined by two dolphins, who explored curiously before swimming away.
With access to water at the dock, we took a long shower and topped up our water tanks before setting sail again.

Sailing tales in the Gulf of Krissa

As we sailed, we passed fish farms, a factory and small deserted islands. Entering the Gulf of Krissa we encountered large turtles. The bay we chose to anchor in was peaceful with a few beachgoers. Although the water was clear, we couldn’t see the bottom. Following Navily’s advice, we anchored in the middle of the bay at a depth of 6.5 metres.

We used our dinghy to explore a nearby island, found flower bulbs and spotted a rabbit. Strong winds kept us on the boat for days, gusting to 30 knots. Despite the chilly water, we managed to go snorkelling. Between windy days we visited Galaxidi and enjoyed a nice breakfast in the harbour.

At sunrise we hoisted the anchor and sailed on to our next destination.

Leisurely days and canal adventure preparations in Corinth

We got up early to catch the sunrise and lift anchor to begin the long journey to Corinth. Taking advantage of the morning breeze, we entered the small harbour and found the two main piers empty. Despite a few missing planks, the pier seemed sturdy enough, so we decided to stay for a few nights.

During our stay we walked 13 kilometres round trip to the Decathlon store on the first day and enjoyed the skills of a parasailor for some entertainment. In the evening, we walked another 5 kilometres to buy groceries with our shopping trolley. The town, although industrial, had a pleasant beach area with restaurants.

On Sunday we relaxed, did the washing and filled our water tank. We booked a passage through the Corinthian Canal for Monday at 10 a.m. The booking process was easy, we received a payment link within the hour.

Greg helped a boat called Cooky from the Netherlands to park and then they invited us for drinks. The evening was fun and they talked about sailing in the Cyclades. Greg found out that they were going to sail the canal with us the next day.

Despite a noisy night in the harbour and an early wake-up call from Nelly, the morning started quietly. We prepared for the Corinthian Canal with a healthy dose of excitement. Just before we left, the port authorities arrived to settle the bill. We started the engine and sailed calmly to the entrance of the canal.

Cruising the Corinth Canal; a unique experience

At the entrance of the Corinth Canal, about eight boats were patiently sailing alongside us.
The Corinth Canal Traffic Control guided each boat in a specific order and the view inside was amazing – rock walls, several bridges and milky blue water made it a truly unique experience.

After leaving the canal, the wind got a bit tricky. We decided to furl most of our genoa for smooth sailing. However, we were caught out by strong gusts and Greg had to roll in the genoa to control the boat. Despite the mishap, we managed to keep a small amount of the sail exposed, maintaining a good speed. The waves were getting higher, making the adventure exciting but still manageable.
As we sailed, the wind became more favourable and settled down to 25 knots. In the shelter of an island, there were even moments when there was no wind at all.

Our anchorage was soon in sight. We dropped anchor, cleaned up the boat and made a comforting pot of soup. I quickly washed the deck before the rain started and then we enjoyed the peace and quiet on board. In the evening Greg cooked a delicious meal of meatballs with cherries – perfect for the autumn mood, even though it was still warm at 26 degrees Celsius.

Navigating the unpredictable weather near Poros

They had predicted bad weather with lots of rain and thunderstorms, so we decided to head for Ormos Vidhiou, near Poros, as it was close to where we wanted to take the boat out. The sea was calm as we set sail, but dark clouds suggested uncertainty.

As the clouds darkened, it started to rain and our wind instruments showed 30 knots at the top of the mast, although it felt like a gentle 5 knots where we were. Despite the strange conditions, we managed to sail as the storm approached. We started the engine as a precaution when the wind reached 45 knots on the instruments. Another sailboat heeled into the wind, so we quickly lowered all sails. Somehow we were sheltered from the wind, but heavy rain and thunderstorms followed.

Visibility dropped, so we switched on our navigation lights to stay visible. Fortunately it cleared up and we found a good place to anchor. But then heavy rain and lightning struck close to our boat throughout the evening and night. The next day brought no relief and we were again faced with difficult weather.

Overcoming storms and silent victories at Kalypso

We were lucky to have avoided the forecasted Medicane, but another storm awaited us – the replacement of our troublesome cutlass bearing. We headed for Kalypso, a boatyard near Poros, where we could do our own repairs and spend the night on board, a privilege not available everywhere in Greece.

Arriving at Kalypso, Greg started working on the old bearing. The guys from Kalypso borrowed their tools so we could lift the engine and replace the damaged propeller shaft they had discovered on inspection. The boatyard, owned by Michael and Daniella, had a friendly atmosphere with nine dogs and five cats roaming around, surrounded by lush mountains and citrus trees.

Saturdays on Kalypso meant communal barbecues, which fostered bonds with fellow sailors. With the new bearing and propeller shaft, we were excited to continue our journey through Greece, but were disappointed when the familiar engine noise persisted.

Back on the water, we dropped anchor and asked Kalypso for help. On a Saturday, Michael examined our engine and identified two worn out engine mounts as the problem. The boat had to be hauled out of the water again. Despite the disappointment, we understood the need for action.

Kalypso provided us with ideal replacement parts. With four new engine mounts, expertly fitted by Greg, and a day in the dry dock, the mysterious noise disappeared. It was a small victory, albeit at a financial cost. We could use our engine again with peace of mind.

Silent sailing and shoreline cleanup at Nisida Nisida

We used our engine all the time because there was no wind and we enjoyed how quiet it was. It was so peaceful! As soon as we dropped the anchor, we quickly dived into the clear blue water. We were ready to continue our journey, which was exciting!

The next day we rowed our little boat to a nearby island. We visited a tiny church and then, with a bag in hand, started picking up plastic that had washed up on the beach.

Peristeria bay chronicles

We spent three days at Peristeria Bay. During our stay we explored a mountain cave which gave us a special view of the bay from above, although the cave itself wasn’t that exciting.

We enjoyed snorkelling among lots of fish, and our boat became a hangout for curious groups of small, funny-looking garfish. By Sunday the bay was full of other boats playing loud music, so we decided it was time to move on.

Athens unveiled: Exploring history and modern charms

As I gazed at the horizon and spotted Athens in the distance, the excitement rose. Through the binoculars, the majestic Acropolis came into view, creating a special moment on the doorstep of this historically rich metropolis.

We found a cheap berth at Alimos Marina, only 90 euros for three nights. Our stay was limited from Monday to Thursday due to charter boat reservations on other days.

Although the marina was a long way from the city centre, the efficient trams and metros got us there in just half an hour.

Many monuments can be admired from a distance without having to buy tickets, and you can enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Acropolis by taking a walk to Lofos Filopappou.

In the end, Athens was even better than expected, mixing history, culture and modern life into a truly unforgettable experience.

Navigating from Athens to Legrana Bay with a glimpse of Poseidon’s Temple

We set off from the harbour, carefully navigating around the racing boats in training. We hoisted the genoa and sailed along the coast at a steady 3.5-4 knots. After a few hours the wind died down and we started the engine. Looking back at Athens, we saw a downpour, but fortunately we stayed dry and sailed in the sunshine.

The wind picked up again and we partly unfurled the genoa and sailed close to the wind. In the distance we saw the bay of Sounio with about 30 masts anchored. We decided to anchor in the bay of Legrana, which was quieter. Despite some waves from passing ships, we enjoyed a beautiful view of the Temple of Poseidon in the distance.

Seasick adventures to serene retreats in Kythnos

The anchor was hoisted smoothly and we unfurled most of the genoa. Cruising at just under five knots, we headed straight for our destination. The voyage proved to be more adventurous than expected, with waves making the boat sway uncomfortably. Both Nelly and I were beginning to feel a little seasick, but we were still making steady progress. After about five hours we found a good spot and dropped anchor.

The next morning, Greg skilfully rowed an extended line to nearby rocks and secured the boat with the cockpit facing the shore.

We jumped into the dinghy and took some stunning drone footage of the area. Later we explored a thermal spring in a nearby cove. Although not very big, it was the closest thing to a bath we’d had in months.

The next day was relaxed; we spent our time snorkelling and learning to play backgammon.

Sailing the waves to the south side of Kythnos

We started our journey with the engine to leave the bay. Despite the presence of some wind, we decided to prepare the boat before hoisting the sails. Having organised everything, we released the genoa and set course for the tip of the island.

However, we encountered rough waves coming from the side of the boat, causing it to roll dangerously. Despite our best efforts to secure things, objects began to fly around. The wind had picked up considerably and we had already rolled in half the genoa. It wasn’t the most comfortable ride, but we were going really fast. When we got behind the island, the waves calmed down and the wind started to die down. It was the perfect time to relax.

We noticed some inaccuracies in the Navionics sonar chart, as we were anchoring in a comfortable 6.5 metres of water, whereas the chart suggested less than half a metre. We prepared the boat for the expected Meltemi wind.

During the night the wind picked up, gusting to 35 knots. Luckily our anchor held up very well.

A record-breaking sailing adventure going to Paros

We got up very early in the morning to prepare for a long boat trip. The sea, which had been rough earlier, had calmed down considerably, with a wind of about 10 knots and no big waves. However, different weather forecasts had given different predictions, with some saying it would be a gentle 15 knots and others suggesting a more challenging 25 knots.

As we sailed out of the bay we were pleasantly surprised by a 20 knot side breeze. We adjusted the sails to keep the boat balanced and started to pick up speed, reaching 8.8 knots, which was a record for us. It was a nice surprise as we didn’t know our boat could go that fast. 😅

While we were logging our trip on the computer, we hit a big wave that we hadn’t expected. It caused some chaos on the boat and we found onions all over the place and a plant that had fallen over in the cockpit. Once we had cleaned up, things got a bit calmer.

When we arrived, we tried to anchor in the busy eastern bay, but our anchor didn’t hold, so we moved to the less crowded western bay, where fortunately it did.

We spent several nights in the bay, exploring the small town of Parikia and hiring a car to visit charming villages such as Naousa and Lefkes. We also hiked to the Monastiri lighthouse and explored a fascinating marble cave.

The day before we left, the wind died down. Armed with camping chairs, we relaxed on the nearby sandy shore and enjoyed the simple pleasures of the beach.

Exploring Antiparos

We stopped at Soros Beach, and the views remained stunning. Our main aim there was to visit the caves of Antiparos.

The next morning we used our dinghy to get to the nearest pier. We had a half hour walk to the entrance of the caves. We paid €5 each for entry and walked down about 500 steps (getting back up was a bit of a challenge). The caves were popular, with a bus dropping off a group of excited French tourists during our visit.

While I usually prefer less crowded attractions, the caves had impressive stalactites and inscriptions from 19th century visitors. Would I visit again? Probably not.

Back on our boat, we hoisted the anchor and sailed on to our next destination.

Despotiko: a goat-filled island

We sailed smoothly towards the tip of Antiparos at a steady 4 knots. We started the engine when the wind started to blow at 20 knots on our nose. We had predicted stronger winds in the coming days, so we made sure our anchor was securely set with a long chain, and fortunately it held well.

On the neighbouring island of Despotiko, we spotted over a hundred goats roaming freely across the barren landscape. There was a temple on the island, but visitors weren’t allowed without a guide.

We stayed there for a few days, and when the wind finally died down, we took the opportunity to go fishing from our dinghy. Greg caught three small fish and I caught one. Unfortunately they were too small for a satisfying meal, so we released them back into the sea.

Connecting with fellow adventurers in Sifnos

The sea gave us a smooth, wave-free ride to our next stop, Sifnos. We dropped anchor in the clear, 9 metre deep waters of the bay and enjoyed the peaceful beauty of the island.

The next day we were joined by Kirsten, Gonzalo and their dog Tinto from @sailingdmed. We swapped stories, went fishing with our dinghies and enjoyed a pleasant dinner at a nearby tavern overlooking our anchored boats. It is always nice to socialise with other liveaboards.

Island adventures in Milos: exploring, reuniting, and sailing serenity

We had a quiet sailing trip from Sifnos to Milos. We enjoyed fishing, embroidering and reading along the way. We anchored in the bay of Adamantas at sunset.

In Milos we first did practical things like laundry and shopping.
Our friends from @sailingdmed joined us for a happy reunion. The next day we explored the natural wonders of the island, including Sarakiniko beach and abandoned mine tunnels. We toured the island by car, visiting Klima, an ancient theatre, Plaka and the abandoned sulphur mines. We ended the day in Pollonia, eating and drinking on our friends’ boat.

Before leaving the bay, we filled our water tanks and restocked our provisions – a satisfying feeling back on the boat.

SUP adventure in a captivating cove at Sarakiniko Beach

We couldn’t resist anchoring in this mesmerising spot with its stunning views of white volcanic rock formations and fearless cliff divers.

We inflated the Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) and launched into the crystal clear waters, embarking on an adventure to explore the nearby caves. Navigating through them, entering from one side of a rock and emerging on the other, was truly special. The magic of the place was undeniable!

Exploring caves and a bird rescue at Kleftiko

Leaving Sarakiniko on the north coast of Milos, we had a smooth sailing to Kleftiko on the south side of the island.

At Kleftiko we anchored to explore the caves, finding many of different sizes, each with its own unique charm. We used the dinghy, stand-up paddleboard (SUP) and even ventured into the dark depths snorkelling – quite scary as the water was pitch black.

During our exploration we found a robin in danger, almost caught by a bird of prey. We rescued the bird and after a while it got better. When evening came, we released it back into the wild.

With the weather forecast predicting strong winds from the south, we hoisted the anchor a few hours later and sailed to Achivadolimni to prepare for the changes ahead.

Anchoring, unexpected winds, and a return to calm waters

At Achivadolimnir we found a spacious place to anchor in about 5 metres of water. In the distance we saw some geese walking along the beach.

The next day we planned to sail to Adamantas to buy chicken from the local supermarket. The bay where we anchored offered good shelter, which was evident as we faced a much stronger wind of 15 knots as we crossed to the other side. We also noticed a lot of waves in Adamantas Bay, so we decided to turn around and head back to Achivadolimni.

The return trip was quite an adventure with winds of up to 30 knots and occasional salt spray all over the boat. Luckily it was only a 30 minute sail and the bay was still calm (wind but no waves) when we arrived.

Oxi Day festivities, goodbyes, and a full moon farewell

When we woke up the water was incredibly clear. As the wind had died down, we decided to go to Adamantas, hoping to find some chicken and say goodbye to our friends from @sailingdmed.

Today was ‘Oxi Day’, also known as the ‘Day of No’. It commemorates the Greek Prime Minister’s refusal of an ultimatum from Italian dictator Benito Mussolini during World War II.

After securing the boat, we took the small boat to the dock where our friends’ boat was moored. We visited a bakery and then went to the supermarket, but unfortunately it was closed for the festivities.

Originally we had planned to leave that day, but we changed our minds and decided to spend another night at anchor to have a last dinner with Kirsten, Gonzalo and Tinto.

We had lunch on their boat and returned to ours for a nap and to prepare for our trip to Crete.
At 8pm Gonzalo picked us up in his dinghy. We started with cocktails and later shared a mixed grill and seafood platter. It was a full moon (with a partial lunar eclipse), the town was bustling and we enjoyed our last evening together, hoping we’d meet again somewhere in the world.

The next day we hoisted anchor and sailed out of Milos.

Preparation for the next journey at Kimolos

In the morning we had breakfast at the bakery and said goodbye to our friends Kirsten, Gonzalo and Tinto. Then we hoisted the anchor and used the engine as the wind was at the wrong angle. We also used the genoa sail to help us along.

When we arrived in the south bay of Kimolos, there was some swell in the evening. In order to stay comfortable, we decided to drop the anchor at the back of the boat (our stern anchor). Fortunately, the night was peaceful and calm.

To prepare for our trip the next day, we each had our chores. Greg prepared food and made cookies and lemonade. I looked after the life jackets and drew up a schedule for keeping watch on the boat.

Cretan adventures: an overnight passage and arriving in Elounda

We hoisted the anchor and sailed out of the bay. Our route was set and we were moving smoothly towards our destination.

As Greg hoisted the spinnaker the wind suddenly stopped. We took down the spinnaker and started the engine. We heated up some Japanese curry for lunch and watched a large sea turtle swim by. Greg then took a nap and I furled the headsail. We were making good progress.

By 8pm the wind had died down again and we had to use the engine. The waves were choppy and the boat was rocking. Luckily the waves had calmed down by midnight. Greg had allowed me to sleep longer than planned, which felt like a luxury!

From 5am to 8am I was in charge. Everything was starting to wake up and I was enjoying the quiet.

After 25 hours of sailing, we anchored in the bay and tidied up. It was time for a nap, a good breakfast and a swim.

The next day we walked around Elounda and explored the area.

A breathtaking coastal hike on Kalydon Island

We moved to the opposite side of the bay as it was quieter and more relaxed on the boat.

The day before we decided to do an 8km walk along the rugged coastline of Kalydon Island. The path was a rocky dirt track, but the views were breathtaking. The trail was easy to follow with red and white markings. It was a really beautiful and peaceful walk and I’d highly recommend it if you’re in the area.

Discovering Agios Nikolaos’ charms

Agios Nikolaos… Our arrival was a bit exciting – the wind caused a small accident when we accidentally bumped into another boat. Luckily there was no serious damage and the support from the other liveaboards was amazing. This place was super friendly and social; we even joined the dart team, even though we were beginners.

We spent our first week exploring the town and found lots of shops and restaurants, making it an ideal place for a longer stay. Personally, I really liked the peaceful Limni Voulismeni lake in the middle of the bustling city.

A bus trip to Heraklion

We took the bus to Heraklion, the capital of Crete. It was a bit of a journey – 65 kilometres, about 1 hour and 30 minutes, but the scenery along the way was amazing.

Once in the city we walked around, did some shopping and had lunch at Nori, a ramen and sushi place. We were surprised to see so many shops selling Christmas decorations.

Heraklion may not be the prettiest city, but it’s good for shopping. Still, we had a nice day exploring.

Crete road trip bliss: Exploring the birthplace of Zeus, monastic treasures, and scenic plateaus

We hired a car near the airport for just 67 euros for two weeks – a fantastic deal to explore Crete. Our road trip took us to the Lasithi plateau, where we stopped at the Dikteon cave and a monastery, where we bought mountain tea and were given a free bag of loukoumi.

We had a special winter discount for the cave entrance and paid only 3 euros per person. The cave was known as the birthplace of Zeus and had beautiful stalactite and stalagmite formations.

The Lasithi plateau, in eastern Crete, was a high plain surrounded by mountains, 840 metres high. It was famous for its fertile soil, agriculture and charming villages. We ended our road trip with a late lunch in the car – bread, cheese, apple and a lovely view with wandering goats.

Crete road trip bliss: a paradise called Preveli Beach

Going on a road trip is always exciting, especially when the destination is as stunning as Preveli Beach in Crete. The journey from Agios Nikolaos to Preveli Beach was about 180 kilometres and took us 2 hours and 30 minutes.

We set off early from Agios Nikolaos and enjoyed the picturesque scenery along the way. Crete’s diverse landscape unfolded before us – from olive groves and charming villages to vineyards and even a banana plantation. The landscape changed from rolling hills to stunning coastal views.

When we reached Preveli Beach, also known as ‘Palm Beach’, it felt like we had stepped into a dream. The combination of golden sands, crystal clear blue waters and the shade of swaying palm trees created a picture perfect scene. The atmosphere was tranquil, the warm Cretan sun, the soothing sound of the waves, geese splashing in the water and the rustling of palm leaves provided an idyllic setting for relaxation.

On our way back, we chose to take the coastal road and enjoyed beautiful views of the sea. This road took us through a quiet mountain pass before joining the main road to Agios Nikolaos.

Crete road trip bliss: conquering Sarakinas Gorge in jeans and hiking Boots

We hadn’t planned to hike up Sarakinas Gorge, and we weren’t dressed for it in our jeans. Luckily we had our hiking boots in the car.

Walking through the gorge was a lot of fun. There were big rocks that needed ropes from other climbers to help us, and we had to cross the river a couple of times, so we were quite wet by the end of the walk.

The high cliffs, about 150 metres high, made us feel very small. The green plants along the riverbank added to the beauty. Coming out of the gorge, we entered a forest with goats wandering around and birds of prey watching us from above. It was as if we had stepped into another country.

Crete road trip bliss: a beautiful hike through Richtis Gorge

Equipped with sturdy boots, appropriate clothing, trail snacks, lunch, water and sunscreen, we were well prepared for our adventure into Richtis Gorge. The walk was about 10 kilometres (although the trail to the waterfall was about 5 kilometres, we decided to make a loop back to the starting point). In winter, the usual 3 euro trail fee was waived.

The forest was beautiful. We saw small pools, palm trees, oak trees, herbs, wild flowers, bridges and stairs. My favourite was a long staircase with a great view, leading to a waterfall.

However, our preparation didn’t quite prepare us for the challenging return journey. We had to climb a steep mountain, and frequent stops were necessary to keep going. Exhausted, with sore legs but satisfied, we finally made it back to our car.

Crete road trip bliss: exploring Kritsa Gorge and meeting the meadow goats

We had to return the car the next day, so we decided to do another walk. This time it was a shorter one through the Kritsa gorge. The walk seemed similar to the one in the Sarakinas gorge, but without a river running through it.

The walk was pleasant, with some rope navigation and climbing over large rocks. The trail was well marked, which was helpful as it wasn’t clear which was the easiest way over the rocks.

On the way back to our car we passed through meadows where goats were grazing. The goats looked surprised, probably wondering why we were in their home.

Celebrating the holidays on our boat

Celebrating Christmas in Crete was a little different for us. Despite the festive decorations and cosy street lights, there was no winter weather. But I wasn’t complaining. I used to wish for warm winter days during the rainy season in Belgium, and even last year in the cold canals of France.

Now I was missing the typical winter atmosphere – scarves, hats and thick sweaters. I even missed going to Christmas markets, something I rarely did before. It’s strange how tastes change.

Getting Christmas dinner ingredients from a Cretan supermarket was a bit tricky, but we managed to bring the Christmas spirit to our boat. We had prawn cocktail, duck with cranberries, stewed apples, gratin dauphinois and a dessert box of biscuits and chocolates – we even had mulled wine on board.

We celebrated New Year’s Eve in the marina with a small gathering, enjoying mulled wine, food and a crackling fire – lots of good conversation and cosiness.

Life at the marina was great, not a dull day, but I miss sailing and anchoring. After months of living on a floating car park, I long for the open sea – waking up, diving into the water, lifting the anchor and moving on to the next breathtaking spot.

But first, Belgium. The countdown has started. Nervous about flying with Nelly, but excited to see friends, family and Antwerp. This beautiful city holds a special place in my heart and I wonder how much it has changed in 1.5 years.

UPDATE 2024:

A return to the sea with unexpected challenges

After taking a break for five months, as we stayed in the marina of Agios Nikolaos, we were thrilled to set sail again and feel the freedom of the open sea. But our excitement turned to surprise when our new family member Finn, our cat, got seasick. Poor Finn had a dramatic moment of vomiting that reminded us of a scene from a scary movie. Luckily, once we anchored, Finn bounced back quickly and was soon playing around like usual.

While we were anchored near Elounda, we took the opportunity to let Finn explore the outdoors for the first time. He absolutely loved the fresh sea air. Meanwhile, I had to quickly wash our dirty sheets—a not-so-glamorous part of life on a boat after Finn’s seasickness incident. Our Finnish friends Marika and Jarno, who we’d met back in Agios Nikolaos, were nearby on their boat SuviTuuli, and we enjoyed catching up with them.

The next morning started foggy, but that didn’t stop me from going for a run. When I got back, we were pleasantly surprised to see our other Finnish friends, Tuula and Pekka, who had anchored nearby with their new catamaran, Relacat. They gave us a tour of their boat, and we spent a relaxing afternoon swimming in the warm water and enjoying the sea breeze together.

That evening, Tuula and Pekka hosted a lovely dinner on their catamaran, and Marika and Jarno joined us too. Greg made his famous nachos, and we had a wonderful time chatting, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company. It was a perfect evening with good food and great friends.

A journey into history and humanity

We moved to a quieter spot across the bay, away from the busy town of Elounda. It was a refreshing change, surrounded by the calm sounds of waves and birds.

We decided to take a 6.4km hike on a trail we knew from last November, curious to see how spring had changed the landscape. We hoped to see lots of wildflowers, but there weren’t as many as we expected. Still, walking in nature under the sunny sky felt really good and helped us relax.

Later, I went out on my stand-up paddleboard as the sun was setting behind the mountains. It was an incredible sight, with the sky turning shades of orange and pink. I felt so lucky to witness such a beautiful moment.

After returning, we got ready to sail to Spinalonga Island. Off the coast of Crete, this island holds a fascinating history that has intrigued many. Made famous by Victoria Hislop’s novel, ‘The Island’, it was a place where people with leprosy lived in isolation from 1903 to 1957.

Both of us were drawn to visit Spinalonga after reading Hislop’s book. We anchored our boat nearby and set out to explore the island’s secrets firsthand.

Walking through its narrow paths and exploring the old buildings and graves, we felt like we had stepped back in time. It was moving to imagine what life must have been like for the people who lived there long ago. Despite its solemn past, the island was adorned with colorful wildflower fields, adding a touch of natural beauty to the scene.

Leaving Spinalonga, we carried away memories of its hauntingly beautiful landscape and a deeper respect for the strength of the human spirit. Our visit gave us a new perspective on history and the resilience that people can show in difficult times.

BBQ and bonfire with friends

We sailed across the bay again, this time to join other boaters for a special barbecue and bonfire gathering. On Crete, there are spots perfect for barbecues where you just need to bring your own coals.

We loaded up our dinghy with drinks, snacks, plates, utensils, a whole chicken, and our camping chairs. As the wind calmed down, the evening grew peaceful.

We enjoyed chatting and sharing stories while dreaming about the future under the starry sky. Right when we lit the bonfire, we even spotted a shooting star—a perfect start to our sailing season. The crackling fire warmed us up and made the night unforgettable with laughter and good times shared among friends.

Surviving a Wild Night at Anchor

Our peaceful night at anchor took a dramatic turn when the wind blew much stronger than expected. The forecast predicted 30 knots, but we were hit with a staggering 54 knots, thanks to fierce katabatic winds rushing down from the mountains.

I stayed up all night, anxious that our boat might drift into nearby boats or even collide with the concrete pontoon behind us. Waves crashed around us, and in the chaos, our dinghy flipped over, soaking our outboard engine in saltwater. Half an hour later, it flipped back upright on its own.

Thankfully, Greg and Michi, our friend who joined us on board El Burro, worked their magic. They managed to fix the engine by changing the oil and cleaning some parts.

By morning, we’d had enough of the storm’s fury. We decided to move to a quieter spot on the other side of the bay. As the sun rose, we felt immense relief to be away from the turbulent weather, thankful that we had faced the challenge together and come out safely on the other side.

Exploring the Wild Beauty of Kalydon

We set out to explore the rugged beauty near Elounda with a hike through Kalydon.

The trail, about 3.2 kilometers long, followed paths that seemed made for goats, winding past spiky bushes and encountering many sheep and goats roaming freely. Climbing 119 meters, we were rewarded with stunning views of the landscape and the sea.

When we returned to our boat, the wind suddenly picked up. Waves crashed into our dinghy, soaking us instantly.

Despite the unexpected splash, our hike through Kalydon was an adventure filled with natural beauty and memorable moments in Crete’s wild landscapes.

Life near Elounda: Adventures and goodbyes

Once again, we anchored our boat near Elounda, with Michi and Greg managing the boat while I paddled alongside on the stand-up paddleboard (SUP). After settling in, I took care of our laundry and found a service that washed, dried, and neatly folded everything for a reasonable 15 euros.

During our shopping trip, we stumbled upon amazing cheese, almost as good as the famous Greek feta we’ve been enjoying. With our boat stocked up and our clothes clean, plus plenty of fresh water, we were ready to sail.

But the weather forecast for the next day wasn’t great. Strong westerly winds threatened to make our journey uncomfortable.

Before the weather turned, I took a final run through Elounda, enjoying the sights and sounds of the lovely town.

As night came, Pekka and Tuula kindly invited us for a farewell drink on their boat, joined by Marika and Jarno. It was sad saying goodbye, not knowing when we’d see each other again. But one of the best parts of this nomadic life is meeting extraordinary people who enrich our journey in unforgettable ways.

Navigating the seas: A day of uncertain weather

Our day started with uncertain weather forecasts: winds were gusting at 20 knots from the wrong direction, and waves were 1 to 1.5 meters high. Despite these conditions, we decided to set sail, ready to adjust our mainsail if needed.

We had two possible destinations in mind: a bay on the east side of Spinalonga (Mirabello Bay) or a small port about 20 miles away at Paralia Milatou. It all depended on how rough the seas became.

Once we were out at sea, the sailing conditions turned out to be surprisingly comfortable. Our Aries windvane steered the boat smoothly as we headed towards Dia, a small island near Heraklion, Crete. We mostly relied on sailing and only used the engine for the final part of the journey.

After about two hours, I started feeling seasick. Finn, our cat, also had a rough time and ended up making a mess in his litter box. Cleaning up in the rolling waves wasn’t easy, but we hoped Finn would get used to life on the boat soon.

Inside the boat, things got chaotic with items falling and moving around. I eventually gave up on trying to tidy up. Luckily, our small living space made it easier to clean up once we anchored.

Despite the challenges, navigating through uncertain weather was a rewarding experience. As we settled down for the night in a peaceful bay, we were grateful for the adventure and the lessons learned on our journey.

Exploring the mysterious island of Dia

As we arrived at Dia Island, it felt strangely quiet and deserted. The few houses there looked frozen in time, with beds still made and tools left scattered in workshops. Even vehicles like a quad bike and a dirt bike stood untouched, waiting for their owners to return.

What intrigued us most were the island’s oddities. There was a single house surrounded by barbed wire, and half of Dia had once been completely fenced off, adding to its mysterious atmosphere. Despite our efforts to research online, we couldn’t find any information about what had happened there in the past.

We decided to hike through the rugged landscape shaped by ancient volcanic eruptions. Along the way, we caught glimpses of kri-kri goats, adding to the island’s allure.

Despite exploring every corner, Dia kept its secrets hidden. As we left, we were still wondering about its history, leaving us with more questions than answers about this intriguing and enigmatic place.

From a peaceful start to rough seas

Our first day of sailing started off great. The cats were resting peacefully, we sailed smoothly most of the time, and Greg cooked up some tasty pizza. The atmosphere on our boat was relaxed and enjoyable.

As the sun went down, the wind slowed down too, so we had to use the engine. It was a bit foggy outside, which gave everything a spooky feeling, but everything went fine. There were no big events or amazing sights, except for a beautiful sunrise the next morning.

On the second day, around noon, the wind suddenly got stronger. Greg found out that Finn had gotten sick again, this time on the bed. Poor Finn was shaking with fear because the boat was rocking a lot in the waves. I tried to comfort him, but I started feeling sick too and unexpectedly cold. I tried to rest while Greg and Michi managed the boat outside. The movement inside was intense, and our cats were struggling with the rough seas.

By 7 PM, we reached our “new” destination. Originally, we planned to go south of the Peloponnese, but instead, we sailed east to Monemvasia to find shelter from the strong winds predicted. Once we anchored and turned off the engine, Finn quickly recovered and started playing on deck.

Here are some stats from our journey:

• Distance traveled: 137.5 nautical miles
• Duration: 32 hours
• Average speed: 4.2 knots

Despite the challenges, reaching Monemvasia was a relief, where we could rest and prepare for the windy weather ahead.

Exploring Medieval Monemvasia: A journey back in time

Sailing to Monemvasia was like stepping back in time to a world of medieval charm and mystery. As our boat approached the towering rock fortress, I couldn’t help but feel amazed.

After anchoring nearby for two nights, we eagerly explored the narrow cobblestone streets and hidden pathways of the medieval village. Everywhere we looked, there were ancient churches with beautiful paintings, old houses covered in colourful flowers, and small shops selling local crafts and foods.

Walking through the winding streets, it felt like we were in a fairy tale where history and stories come alive. Each corner we turned seemed to whisper secrets from the past, drawing us deeper into this enchanting place.

Climbing up the steep cobblestone path to the upper town, we were rewarded with a stunning view of the sparkling sea below. From the ancient fortress walls, we could see far and wide, with turquoise waters stretching out to the horizon in a breathtaking view.

Monemvasia captured our hearts with its blend of history and natural beauty. Exploring this medieval gem was like uncovering hidden treasures, preserving the magic of ancient times along Greece’s timeless coastline.

Sailing through strong winds and Sahara dust

We encountered really strong winds, about 35-40 knots. Steering the boat manually was tough because we had to stay super focused, constantly adjusting to the wind and waves to keep our course steady. Thankfully, the waves were somewhat cooperative this time, which made the rough sea a bit easier to handle.

When we arrived at our destination, at Porto Kagio, the sky had a strange yellow tint. It was caused by Sahara dust particles in the air, giving everything an eerie and almost spooky feeling.

Throughout the journey, Finn, our cat, kept getting sick. It’s strange because he seems to feel better once we anchor, even though the boat rocks back and forth. It’s a mystery why he’s uncomfortable at sea.

Our time at Porto Kagio was marked by persistent strong gusts that mostly kept us confined to our boat. The weather didn’t stop us entirely though; we did manage to explore the town, which was essentially a single street, and took a short hike further inland. However, our main priority was getting the boat ready for our next journey, which was going to be our longest passage so far. There were supplies to organize, equipment to secure, and final checks to make sure we were ready for whatever the sea had in store for us.

As we looked ahead to our next adventure, we felt a mix of excitement and readiness. Porto Kagio had been a brief stop, but it had prepared us well for the challenges and rewards of our upcoming voyage.

Reflections on nine months in Greece

Our nine months in Greece have been an unforgettable adventure. From the breathtaking turquoise waters to the ancient ruins lining the coast, Greece captivated us with its beauty and rich history. Yet, it wasn’t just the landscapes that touched our hearts; it was the warmth of the people and the sense of freedom that life on the open sea brought us.

Sailing from island to island, each with its own unique charm, Greece began to feel like home. Whether we were witnessing stunning sunsets, wandering through narrow streets, or diving into clear waters, each moment reminded us of the magic this country holds. Greece has left an indelible mark, and I carry its spirit with me as we continue our adventures on the sea.