Our Mediterranean Sea Adventure Pt. 3 – Sardinia, Sicily & Mainland Italy

Let’s kick off our Italian adventure with an epic buggy ride!

May 2023.
During our initial days in Italy, we encountered a lot of wind and rain, so we took shelter in Porto Pozzo. It was still May, and many shops and restaurants in the town were closed. To make the most of our time, we decided to go on a hike. Greg used Google Maps to find a walking route, and we took our dinghy to the other side of the bay.

However, upon mooring our dinghy, we were informed it was a private island. We were about to leave when we were asked to wait. After a short while, the owner of the island arrived with an off-road vehicle. He explained that hiking on the island was risky due to wildlife but suggested he could arrange something for the next day.
We mentioned rain was forecasted for the following day, and he promptly organised a tour of the island. We still didn’t know much about where we were. Over coffee, the owner, Marco, revealed that the island was a wildlife reserve, a private project he was working on to create an eco-friendly agritourism business. You can learn more about it on their website, the Culuccia Wildlife Reserve Project.

We then hopped in a buggy driven by Marco’s colleague, Lucrecia, who gave us an extensive tour of the island. We passed bee hives, a vineyard, beautifully renovated houses, stunning beaches, and untouched nature. Lucrecia explained the wildlife, plants, and the project’s origins, even teaching us some Italian words. After nearly two hours, she dropped us off at the jetty, and we returned to our boat, thrilled with this unexpected adventure.

The arrival of our first crew member

Our trip to Olbia was amazing. The natural scenery was beautiful, but it became truly magical when a large bottlenose dolphin appeared and swam right in front of our boat, gazing at us while we watched in awe.

In Olbia, we docked at a free quay in the city center. Although there were no amenities, we were pleasantly surprised by the city, even though we hadn’t researched it beforehand. We spent our first day taking care of practical matters since we were only staying for one night. The next day, our first crew member, Michael (Miki), joined us.

Around 8am, Miki arrived at our boat. We had a nice breakfast and explained how things worked on board, like navigation planning and safety. Once we caught some wind, we raised the sails. We had to change our course frequently because of the numerous islands we passed.

By the time we reached our anchorage, it was late and we were quite tired from the long day of sailing. Miki tried fishing, but didn’t catch anything. Greg fired up the barbecue, and we had a delicious meal together. Afterward, we relaxed on board, and it was a successful first day for the three of us.

Exploring the east coast of Sardinia

We had a lovely breakfast on our boat at Budoni’s anchorage. Then, we went to the beach in three different ways: Miki swam to shore, Greg used the dinghy, and I threw my SUP (stand-up paddleboard) in the water.

We picked some sea snails from the rocks and took a leisurely walk along the beach, enjoying the natural beauty. We heard distant thunder over the mountains.
Around noon, we tried sailing, but the wind was weak, so it took a while to cover just a mile. We eventually gave up and used the engine to reach our next anchorage. Greg prepared the sea snails, and they tasted great.
Later that evening, Greg and Miki rowed to the beach, made a campfire, while I tidied up the boat. The day ended peacefully on board, with a beautiful sunset.

The next day, we sailed with our parasailor, not having a specific destination in mind. The scenery was stunning with impressive cliffs. In the afternoon, the wind dropped, and we had to use the engine again. We discovered a more sheltered spot on Navily and anchored at Arbatax. A pod of dolphins seemed to welcome us.

The following day was more relaxed. We had breakfast, moved the boat to a more quiet spot, swam, walked, had lunch, and took a nap on the boat. At sunset, we took the dinghy to an abandoned tower at a viewpoint, followed by a dark dinghy ride back to our boat.

The last day at this anchorage, we took our dinghy out with a large can of cat food. Miki left to find tobacco, while we headed to where the stray cats were. When we opened the can, around 30 cats came running from all directions. It was a bit challenging to feed them all, so we returned later with a big bag of cat food.

We caught up with Miki in Tortoli, a village. Most bars were closed, but we found a coffee and ice cream shop to hang out for a while. After that, we went to the supermarket and walked back to our dinghy. We wrapped up the day by playing a card game called The Mind.

An eventful passage to Sicily

We set out on a two-night sailing journey from Sardinia to Sicily, a distance of 205 miles. With three of us on board, we took turns to keep watch, making the trip more relaxed and allowing for proper sleep. It turned out to be our longest voyage since sailing with our boat, El Burro. To summarise our journey:

Day 1:

• We left around noon with a mild 6-knot wind.
• We started sailing but later had to use the engine as the wind died down.
• After some failed fishing attempts, we finally caught a 3-kilogram bonito.
• We spotted sea turtles and later a playful pod of dolphins.
• The sea was calm, and the night was dark with fluorescent jellyfish lighting the water.

Day 2:

• The day was calm, and we took naps on the boat.
• After rain, the sun emerged and it became hot and sticky.
• We saw a mesmerizing lightning display in the evening, so we began measuring the time between lightning and thunder.
• As the storm approached, we adjusted our course to avoid sailing directly through it.
• The storm briefly caught up with us, with intense lightning and thunder. We secured electronic devices to protect them.
• The night sky cleared, and a lone bird joined us.

Day 3:

• The morning brought a joyful sight of dolphins playing around the boat.
• A bilge alarm went off due to a burst water pipe, but Greg managed to fix it.
• As we approached Sicily, we saw cumulonimbus clouds hinting at a powerful storm.
• After a 50-hour journey filled with challenges and wonder, we reached Mondello Bay in Sicily amidst heavy rainfall, successfully completing the voyage.

One day in Palermo, Sicily

We enjoyed a relaxing day in Mondello Bay, basking in the sun. I lounged on the deck with Nelly, a captivating book, and listened to the lively sounds of the bay. The place was buzzing with swimmers, paddleboarders, and beachgoers, creating a perfect backdrop for a laid-back day.
In the late afternoon, we rowed the dinghy to the shore for a walk along the promenade. We treated ourselves to Sicilian ice cream and had a wood-fired pizza to bid farewell to our friend Miki, who was returning to Germany.

The next day, we took a bus to Palermo, the capital of Sicily. In less than half an hour, we arrived in this bustling city, eager to explore its streets.
Our stroll led us to a lively street market, filled with the scents of fish and meat. The chaotic atmosphere added to Palermo’s charm, capturing its essence. The city felt nostalgic with remnants of old telephone booths and Italian culture, but it was disheartening to see so much litter and single-use plastic, showing a lack of concern for the environment.
However, Palermo had its own unique and somewhat chaotic character. The people there were welcoming, and we had friendly encounters throughout the day. In a bistro, we even had impromptu language lessons with a helpful waiter, adding a touch of charm to our experience. After immersing ourselves in Palermo’s vibrant atmosphere for a day, we decided it was time to return to the tranquility of Mondello Bay.

Cefalù, the most charming Sicilian city

We sailed to a safe anchorage near Cefalù’s old port. Rain made us delay our city exploration.

The next day, despite intermittent rain, we took our dinghy to the old port’s quay. We noticed three impressive superyachts, making our boat, El Burro, seem small. Our mission was to find a laundromat and discover Cefalù’s charm.
While waiting for our laundry, we enjoyed the enchanting atmosphere of the historic town. The Duomo, a magnificent cathedral, was at the heart of Cefalù, surrounded by cozy cafes, authentic shops, and traditional Sicilian restaurants.

On the second day, we hiked La Rocca, a 269-meter high mountain. After buying tickets (which felt a bit like entering a theme park), we followed rugged paths, enjoying the natural beauty. We explored the ruins of a castle with a breathtaking view and passed ancient temple ruins and village remains. The two-hour walk left us with a greater appreciation for Cefalù’s natural and historical wonders.

A fun scooter ride on Isola di Vulcano

We sailed to Isola Di Vulcano in the Aeolian archipelago. Once there, we rented a scooter to explore the island. We zipped along scenic roads, taking in the volcanic island’s beauty and stopping at interesting sights.

The highlight of the island is, like the name mentions, its volcano. We left the scooter and hiked to the summit. The climb was tough, but the breathtaking panoramic views from the top were worth it. We could see neighboring islands, the sea, and the volcano’s smoking crater.

The next morning, we took one more scooter ride, enjoying the lush nature and coastal views. We also fed the island’s stray cats along the way.

After exploring Isola di Vulcano, we returned the scooter and prepared to set sail on our boat. We filled up our water tank and cleaned the boat before leaving.

Through the Strait of Messina

We sailed through the Strait of Messina, a powerful and historic waterway that separates Sicily from mainland Italy. The strong currents in the strait are famous and have shaped the region’s history and maritime legends. We saw mesmerising whirlpools and eddies beneath our boat, reminding us of the mythical stories linked to this area.

We carefully planned our passage, taking advantage of the tidal flow to navigate safely through the strait. It’s a crucial trade route, connecting the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, and is steeped in mythology, with tales of Scylla and Charybdis warning sailors of the dangers.

After passing through the strait, we anchored at Bova Marina on the southern Italian mainland. It was a satisfying feeling, knowing we had successfully completed this memorable journey.

Sailing along the Italian South Coast

One of the first things we noticed while sailing along the Italian South Coast were the damaged, abandoned sailboats on the beach, previously used by stranded immigrants, symbolizing the risks they take. Later in the week at Roccella Ionica, we encountered more refugee boats with torn sails, a reminder of their difficult journeys.

While leaving Roccella Ionica marina, we encountered changing winds, ranging from gentle breezes to strong gusts, testing our sailing skills. Amid these challenges, we spotted a sailboat without sails or an engine. Initially, it seemed fine, but later, it tragically capsized on the rocks. We immediately alerted the coast guard, aware of the risks many face on Mediterranean migrant journeys. This exhausting day left us physically and emotionally drained.

The day after, we had great weather for sailing our boat to one of the anchorages at Capo Rizzuto, which was 30 miles away from where we started.

Life on our boat can be a mix of adventure and relaxation. Some days are full of excitement and exploration, while others are all about slowing down and unwinding.
After tidying up and checking supplies, Greg accidentally hit his toe, so we decided to take a break. We relaxed in the cockpit with art and literature and cooled off in the water. Later, I painted the cabin window frames but changed colours when it didn’t match with the rustic cabin feeling. We also cleaned the hull and once Greg’s foot was better, we went ashore for fries, fried fish and ice cream.

To reach the heel of the South of Italy, we had a long journey of nearly 60 miles ahead of us so we left early.
In the beautiful morning light, we were joined by a group of striped dolphins, which is always a wonderful sight. We also spotted a flying fish for the first time, amazed at how far it could glide through the air before splashing back into the clear blue sea. We encountered more sea turtles, too.
For most of the day, we had to rely on our engine’s power as the wind was calm. But after about seven hours, the wind picked up, and we were able to use our parasailor, and later our main and jib sails, to make progress. We reached our chosen anchorage around 7 p.m.

That night, we were nearly alone at the anchorage, but the next day, many other boats joined us. There were almost 60 boats at one point, and even a small rubber boat managed to weave through the anchored boats to deliver ice cream. We couldn’t resist getting some – it’s always refreshing on a hot, sunny day. Later in the evening, the other boats returned to their marina, and we were almost alone in the bay again.
The following day, the wind got stronger, and we realised our anchorage wasn’t safe anymore. Big waves were coming into the bay, so we had to anchor closer to Galipolli to seek shelter from the strong north wind.

We anchored near Galipolli’s old town, but the Coast Guard advised us to move farther from the shore, which we promptly did. As more boats arrived, we noticed some anchored closer to the shore, leaving us curious as why they only warned us.
Later, we explored Gallipoli in our dinghy, though the Coast Guard’s safety warning of why we were not wearing a life jacket in our dinghy made it a less enjoyable day.

Fortunately, the following day brought a better experience. Our first adventure was a trip to the supermarket, a task that involved loading and unloading the dinghy, buying groceries, and storing them on our boat.
After lunch, we explored Gallipoli, indulging in Italian classics like pizza and gelato. Wandering through the charming old town, we immersed ourselves in the local atmosphere and culture, enhanced by the melodious Italian language and expressive gestures of its people.

Torre del Pizzo is a hidden gem in southern Italy, and we were impressed when we anchored here a few days ago. The place is part of the Regional Natural Park of the Island of Sant’Andrea, and it’s known for its picturesque scenery. The next day, we went on an 8-kilometer hike that took us through lovely countryside, pine forests, dunes, and unspoiled coastline (although there were many crowded lidos or beach bars). During our hike, we were captivated by the vibrant colours and scents of wildflowers, trees, and plants. We also encountered a variety of insects like bees, wasps, butterflies, crickets, grasshoppers, as well as lizards and birds.

Family time in Puglia

During our stay in Santa Maria Di Leuca, we were delighted by the lively atmosphere, including evening concerts that gave the town a festival-like feel.

Exploring the streets led us to Martinucci, a renowned gelateria where we indulged in delicious ice cream and purchased bus tickets to visit Lido Marina, where my family stayed.

Because that was the main reason for being in Leuca, to spend time with my family whom we hadn’t seen in a long time. It was a heartwarming reunion, fostering meaningful conversations about life, dreams, and memories, especially with my sister and my mother.
Creating cherished memories with my niece was another highlight, as we enjoyed the Mediterranean and its cooling waters due to the scorching heat.

Of course, no visit to Italy is complete without savoring its culinary delights, from daily gelato treats to authentic Italian dishes like pasta and pizza.

As our two-week Italian adventure with family concluded, we prepared to set sail for Greece, marking the beginning of another exciting chapter in our journey filled with new memories and ancient wonders.

UPDATE 2024:

Our longest, most exciting passage so far – From Greece to Sicily

May 2024.
On the first day at sea, we got used to living on the boat for a long journey. Finn, our cat, felt sick and spent the day resting in the cockpit. The night sky was beautiful, full of stars and a bright moon, making the ocean look magical.

The second day was very exciting. We saw a sperm whale in the distance. I was so happy, I yelled “WHAAAAAALLEEEEE!!!” and jumped up and down. It felt like a dream come true. The wind picked up, helping us sail faster through the night. We also caught a big-eyed tuna at sunset, which was a great end to the day.

By the third day, we were all very tired. Greg accidentally tangled a fishing line in the propeller. Despite our efforts, Michi, a friend who joined us for a month, had to dive into the rough water to untangle it. It was a hard day, but we worked together and got through it.

The fourth day was much easier. We relaxed with books and enjoyed tasty meals made from our fresh tuna. Some tired birds landed on our boat to rest. It was a calm and peaceful day, giving us a break from the tough times.

On the fifth day, we saw the shores of Sicily at sunrise. We felt very proud and happy.

Discovering the unexpected charm of Syracuse

I had no expectations of Syracuse, or Siracusa as the locals call it. Last year in northern Sicily, Palermo had left me feeling disappointed; its streets were littered with rubbish and it lacked the charm I had hoped to find. But Syracuse, on the southeast coast of the island, was a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

During our week-long stay, we dove into exploring the city, even braving windy dinghy trips to the shore. As soon as we stepped ashore, we were drawn into the narrow, winding streets of Ortigia, the historic heart of Syracuse. It was here that we were truly captivated by the timeless charm of the city. The architecture told stories of a rich history, seamlessly blending Greek, Roman, and Baroque influences.

The atmosphere in Syracuse had a distinct Italian feel, which was a stark contrast to the vibrant but different feel of Greece. Locals sipped espresso in charming cafes and engaged in animated conversation, their voices creating a melodious hum. The beautiful Italian language filled the air, and unlike in Greece, most of the Italians we met didn’t speak English. But the language barrier only added to the authenticity of our experience.

We indulged in the city’s culinary delights, sampling fried seafood, gelato, the famous Sicilian cannoli, and drinking cappuccinos on terraces. The lively market was a daily destination, offering street food, fresh fish, cheese, salami, and an abundance of fruits and vegetables. The vibrant colors and intoxicating smells made every visit a feast for the senses.

What really made Syracuse special, though, were the people. Everyone we met, from locals to fellow liveaboards, was incredibly friendly and welcoming. One evening in particular stands out: the one we spent with Kelly, Sebastian, and Eirik, fellow liveaboards. Over plates of pasta carbonara and a few rounds of games, we shared stories and laughter, creating memories that would last long after the night was over.

As our time in Syracuse drew to a close, we said goodbye to Michi, who flew back to Germany after spending a month with us on our boat. His presence had been a constant source of joy and support, and his absence was keenly felt. Even our cats seemed to miss him. Michi, thank you for your warmth and friendship—you made our trip even more special.

Syracuse was unforgettable, with its charm, delicious food, and wonderful people. Our stay was made memorable by the connections and experiences we shared, from exploring Ortigia’s streets to sharing meals with friends. Every moment in Syracuse was a testament to the unexpected joys of travel.

From champagne sailing to stormy seas

Our sail to Isola delle Correnti, on the island of Sicily, has been very special. It started with what sailors often call ‘champagne sailing’ – perfect conditions with a light breeze and clear skies. The serene start to our journey made everything feel just right. Feeling relaxed, I decided to take a nap below deck and let the calm of the sea lull me to sleep.

But my rest was soon interrupted by the soft pattering of raindrops on the deck above. Sailing in the rain has a unique atmosphere that I really enjoy – it’s eerie in a fascinating way. The world seems to quiet down and everything feels more intimate and enclosed.

Suddenly, Greg’s urgent voice cuts through the sound of the rain. “Get your foul weather gear on!” he shouted. Moments later his voice took on a more alarming tone, “Help!

I scrambled to get my gear on, the wind picking up, signalling the approach of a storm. Lightning, always a source of anxiety for me, began to flash across the sky. The intensity of the storm was overwhelming, but mercifully brief. We were in the middle of a two-minute storm, and as quickly as it had come, it was gone. The rain continued, but without the ferocity of the storm, it brought a sense of peace. Also, the downpour finally cleared away the lingering Sahara dust that had coated our boat.

We anchored under an ominous, darkened sky at Isola delle Correnti, where the Ionian and Mediterranean seas meet. The scene was both dramatic and beautiful, the convergence of two great seas under a brooding sky.

Throughout the night, relentless waves rocked our boat, leaving us little sleep. The constant motion was a stark reminder of the power of the sea and the unpredictable nature of sailing. But despite the challenges, there was something deeply reassuring about being anchored in such a remarkable place.

A day of challenges and tranquility: Sailing to Licata

The night was restless, the swell keeping us awake. As dawn broke, we knew it was time to sail towards Licata, a daunting 61.8 miles away. We prepared ourselves for a long day ahead.

Throughout the journey, we relied heavily on our engine. The wind was light, making smooth sailing a rare treat. Navigating the south coast of Sicily posed challenges, with few sheltered places to anchor safely.

As the day progressed, the scenery unfolded before us—rugged cliffs and vast seas. The sun shone brightly, casting sparkling reflections on the blue waters below. Despite the steady hum of the engine, the peace of the Mediterranean always captivated us.

As evening approached, we eagerly made our way to anchor. The sky transformed into a stunning mix of orange and pink, painting the horizon with its magical colors. Amid this natural beauty, Dr. Dre’s music filled the air, adding a lively beat to the tranquil moment.

By the time we reached Licata, darkness had settled in. Using starlight and our boat’s instruments, we anchored precisely. Thankfully, the swell had calmed down, bringing a serene end to our challenging day.

A serene journey to Realmonte

Our day began with a peaceful sail from our anchorage, the calm sea gently guiding our boat. However, as luck would have it, the wind didn’t quite cooperate and we had to switch to our engine. Despite this minor setback, the sea shimmered beautifully, almost as if covered in a delicate veil.

By late afternoon, the wind was back in our favour and we were able to hoist the sails and head for Realmonte.

Our chosen anchorage was nothing short of breathtaking – a stretch of golden beach dotted with swaying palm trees. It was a picture perfect scene that instantly put us at ease.

As the sun sank towards the horizon, casting its warm hues across the sky, I found myself relaxing on deck, accompanied by Finn. Together we soaked up the serene beauty of the sunset, a moment of pure serenity in the midst of our adventurous journey.

The unpredictable Mediterranean

Sailing in the Mediterranean teaches you to always be ready for surprises. Today was a clear example of that lesson. We started our journey cautiously optimistic, relying on the weather forecast for a smooth trip. But as any sailor knows, things can change fast out on the water.

The wind and waves didn’t match what the forecast predicted. They came at us strong and from unexpected directions, soaking us and turning what we thought would be an easy sail into a tough, demanding ordeal.

After battling against the elements, we had to make a tough call to turn back. Safety became our top concern, so we searched for calmer waters to anchor safely. It was a humbling experience that underscored the immense power and unpredictability of the sea.

Sailing isn’t just about getting from one place to another—it’s about respecting nature’s forces and being ready to adapt to whatever challenges come your way. Today’s journey, though challenging, taught us valuable lessons in resilience and the importance of staying flexible while navigating the sea.

Discovering Capo Bianco and Foce Del Fiume Platani

Today we took a peaceful walk through Capo Bianco and Foce del Fiume Platani – a journey into unspoilt natural beauty.

The beach at Capo Bianco greeted us with its pristine sands, untouched by beach bars or buildings, just the beauty of nature. The sea gently kissed the shore, creating a tranquil atmosphere that felt like a scene from a postcard.

As we explored further, we entered the forest of Foce del Fiume Platani. The air was filled with the refreshing scents of pine and eucalyptus, creating a peaceful atmosphere. It was a place where time seemed to slow down, inviting us to relax and enjoy the tranquillity.

Walking through the greenery, I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience such natural beauty. These places remind us how lucky we are to be able to discover and appreciate unspoilt landscapes.

We spent hours immersed in the peaceful surroundings, cherishing every moment and reconnecting with nature. At the end of the day, I left with a renewed appreciation for the simple joys of exploring nature.

An escape to Sardinia

Our trip to Sardinia was a peaceful getaway, filled with turtle and dolphin sightings and perfect weather.

Despite the tranquillity, we faced a few challenges. Our engine stopped unexpectedly twice, causing a short delay. We fixed it by changing the filter and pump and it was running normally again.

Despite the beautiful surroundings, I struggled to sleep during the trip. By the second day I was so tired I couldn’t relax even when I tried to take a nap. It was frustrating. Over the past week, I’ve been dealing with what feels like ‘sailing fatigue’, feeling mentally tired from being on the move so much without spending much time on solid ground.

I reached a breaking point recently when a can of water spilled on me, causing an emotional moment. It reminded me of the challenges of living on a constantly moving boat.

But things are getting better. I’ve learnt the importance of taking care of myself and accepting that life isn’t perfect. It’s okay to have hard days; life has its ups and downs. Recognising this has helped me to feel more balanced.

Chilling out in Villasimius

Anchoring in Villasimius was like finding a secret paradise – a beautiful beach with green mountains and clear blue water that instantly relaxed us.

After safely parking our dinghy in the nearby harbour, we walked five kilometres to a large supermarket. It felt good to stretch our legs after being on the boat for so long.

The next day we visited a lively market in Villasimius selling fresh fruit, vegetables and local delicacies such as cheese and salami. We stocked up on treats and headed back to the boat feeling like we had hit the jackpot.

We had a refreshing swim and cleaned the hull, which was covered in algae and attracting curious fish.

Sunday started with a walk to a nearby salt lake where we spotted flamingos in the distance.

We found a launderette in the harbour and used it in the afternoon. While waiting for our clothes to be washed, we relaxed on the beach with books, drinks and snacks, enjoying the peaceful surroundings. Back on the boat, we hung our clothes out to dry in the gentle breeze and warm sun, perfect drying weather. As the sun set, I sat on deck with Nelly and Finn, reflecting on a wonderful day.

On Monday, as we were getting ready to leave, we spotted a large dolphin near our anchorage. Our neighbour was swimming and didn’t notice the dolphin approaching until he climbed back onto his boat, surprised by the dolphin’s visit. We enjoyed watching the dolphin before pulling up anchor and sailing to the next bay.

Cagliari: Winds, disappointments, and great pizzas

Our sail to Cagliari started with no wind, so we had to use the engine most of the time. We were expecting a good wind, but it never came. By the time we anchored, the wind had picked up – but it was too late to do any good.

The bay we anchored in was beautiful, but crowded with people enjoying water sports and the beach. We took a bus to Cagliari, hoping for a nice city experience.
To be honest, Cagliari was a little disappointing. It didn’t seem to have much charm or structure. However, we did find a lively food market which was a bright spot.

After exploring, we returned to our boat to relax. Luckily we found a great pizza place nearby called Gusteau. The pizzas there were the best we’ve had in a long time and made our day in Cagliari that much better.

Sailing with migraine = bad idea

Sailing to our next anchorage felt like a hard journey from the start. I woke up with a pounding headache and took a paracetamol in the hope that it would ease the pain.

Early in the morning we hoisted anchor. Our first stop was the fuel jetty to fill our water tanks. Yesterday’s encounter with the harbour master was disappointing – he wanted 30 euros for 200 litres, which was beyond our budget, so we politely declined.

At the jetty, a small racing boat suddenly appeared and slowly collided with us. Fortunately, the large inflatable buoys on their boat prevented any damage.

We had better luck at the petrol station where we filled our tank and dinghy jerrycan for a total of seventeen euros, a bargain for water and fuel.

With no wind, we started our engines and left the bay. After a short period of sailing, the wind died down and we had to rely on the engine again. Later we encountered rough waves which made me feel even worse, almost making me sick. Despite the cold, I did not have the energy to grab a jumper. We started our engine again to navigate the waves and were joined for a few miles by a pair of playful dolphins, although they proved elusive for photographs.

Arriving at our anchorage I was completely exhausted. The trip had been anything but pleasant and I retired to bed for the rest of the evening.

The next day began with a refreshing swim among curious fish. I spent the day reading and relaxing, slowly regaining my strength.

Sunday was more active. Greg inflated the SUP and I paddled four kilometres around the bay, returning to the boat tired but happy. The windy weather brought jellyfish to the bay, which prevented further swimming, but Greg managed to catch some fish, which delighted Finn.

As the sun set, we fired up the barbecue and enjoyed a lovely sun-filled evening. Feeling more rested and rejuvenated, I welcomed the new week ahead.

Nature, laughter, and unexpected adventures

Our trip to Porto Pino was an absolute delight. The day was smooth sailing from start to finish without the need for our engine – a sailor’s dream.

Laughter accompanied us on our journey when the military contacted us over the radio. They warned us of their exercise and asked us to stay five miles off the coast. It seemed like a routine communication, nearby boats received the same message, causing some confusion and chaos. One boat even received a stern order to leave immediately, causing panic on the airwaves. The exercise itself lasted less than half an hour, but the loud bangs echoed around the bay.

Porto Pino greeted us with its breathtaking beauty. The long sandy beach with white dunes, a picturesque fishing harbour and the azure sea – it was all picture perfect. It didn’t take us long to dive into the crystal clear water and refresh ourselves.

The next day we ventured further into the area. We anchored our dinghy in the fishing harbour and walked to the nearby supermarket. On the way, we explored a tranquil forest with winding paths filled with the strong, invigorating scent of pine. It was just what I needed after a challenging few days.

Beyond the beach, we discovered a salt lake where flamingos gracefully waded alongside an unexpected military zone. It was a strange combination, but the natural beauty was undeniable. Our walk continued into the Sardinian countryside, revealing tranquil vistas that overwhelmed us with peace. Having covered ten kilometres on foot, we returned to the boat feeling rejuvenated and satisfied.

Spontaneity came next when we decided to sail to the next bay. With the wind dying, we had a blissful two-hour sail over eight miles. We hoisted the anchor and eagerly embarked on our next adventure, appreciating the freedom and beauty of the open sea.

Sailing days like this remind me why I love exploring new places and embracing the unexpected joys of life at sea.

Carloforte’s Girotonno Festival: A celebration of tuna

We happened to dock our boat in Carloforte’s harbor during the annual Girotonno festivities—a town that’s normally peaceful. Surprisingly, we were able to get a spot at the last minute.

Let’s just say the town came to life. Ferries shuttled back and forth, bringing people from the mainland to Carloforte, located on the island of San Pietro, and back again. There was a constant flow of visitors throughout the weekend.

But what exactly are the Girotonno festivities? Let me explain as best as I can, because there’s quite a lot to it.

The Girotonno festivities are an annual celebration dedicated to tuna fishing and the culinary traditions associated with it.

Key aspects of the Girotonno festivities include:

1. Culinary Competitions: Top chefs from various countries come together to participate in cooking contests where tuna is the main ingredient.

2. Tuna Fishing: Although we didn’t see a demonstration, we did learn a lot about the traditional “tonnara” fishing technique, where tuna is caught with nets. We saw photos and were amazed at how large tuna can be.

3. Many Stalls: There are numerous stalls offering dishes and products, featuring both tuna specialties and other local goods.

4. Cultural Events: Music performances, exhibitions, and other events highlight Sardinian culture and traditions. We even saw the famous Italian singer Umberto Tozzi. Umberto who? Just open YouTube, I’m almost certain you’ve heard “Ti Amo” before.