Our Mediterranean Sea Adventure Pt. 1 – Mainland France & Corsica

Preparing our boat for the treacherous seas at Port Napoleon

March 2023.
Our unforgettable seafaring journey began with some boat chores. After our trip through the beautiful land called France, we realised our boat needed some love and care before we could set sail upon the open waves.

One of the crucial tasks we had to tackle was stepping the mast since we are a sailing boat, after all. We dedicated an entire day to this endeavour, which involved replacing all the wiring, installing wind instruments, and thoroughly inspecting our rigging. Fortunately, the process went smoothly, and before we knew it, our mast was gracefully lifted into the air and secured back onto the boat. After that, we had a series of tasks to complete, including pulling new halyards, setting up the boom, attaching sails, raising guest flags, and carefully adjusting and locking the rigging. It was a busy but successful day, ensuring that every element of our mast installation was in place for smooth sailing ahead.

We sailed to Port Napoleon and put our boat on the dry. In two weeks, we transformed our to-do list into a “ta-da” list. We tackled the unpleasant task of cleaning up any mold, addressed the repair work on our waterline, installed a life raft and upgraded our propeller. Additionally, we managed to find a professional who will be crafting a custom bimini and sprayhood for us. They took the necessary measurements, and we can expect the final product in a couple of months. This meant we’ll have to head back to Port Napoleon.

When waves go YOLO and anchor spots play hide and seek

So imagine this scenario: we were really excited to go on an amazing adventure through the stunning Calanques. However, things didn’t go quite as planned. As soon as we set sail, Mother Nature decided to throw us a wild party. The waves became incredibly rough, causing our little boat to be tossed around like a toy and making us question our sailing skills and our resistance against seasickness. Let’s say it was quite a special start of our trip.

Navigating those tricky waters and finding a spot to drop anchor was like trying to find a buried treasure without a map. The beauty around us was stunning, with breathtaking cliffs, but anchoring next to rocks was new to us. Uncertainty prevailed so we sailed into the harbour at Île Ratonneau where we learned that you can drop your anchor basically anywhere (unless otherwise stated), as long as it’s not dropped into seagrass.

The captivating allure of La Ciotat

Entering La Ciotat was another milestone for our El Burro, as it was our first encounter with a ‘Mediterranean style’ berth, with the transom facing the quay. A true test of our docking skills!

La Ciotat greeted us with its small town charm and picturesque beauty. We were moored in a prime location as the harbour was in the heart of the town, surrounded by cosy bars, restaurants and shops. What was meant to be a short stop turned into an extended stay of eight nights as the mischievous mistral wind refused to die down. It simply refused to give us a break, like a persistent poltergeist haunting our sails.

Amidst our time in La Ciotat, we visited Le Parc du Mugel, a must-see gem. We wandered through this botanical wonderland, surrounded by palm trees, mimosas, bamboo and other tropical plants. We also took a walk to the Calanque de Figuerolles, a rock formation that rises dramatically from the sea. Equipped with sturdy boots and a backpack full of snacks (because, priorities), we set off for an afternoon hike. The views of the Mediterranean and the waves crashing against the rocks were definitely a pinch-me moment, a genuine “how did we get there?”.

Our time in La Ciotat was further enriched by the open air market that graced the town every Sunday and the celebration of Greg’s birthday. Our activities ranged from visiting a local vineyard to cycling to nearby Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer and we even took a trip back in time at L’Eden Théâtre, the oldest cinema in the world, where we watched Steven Spielberg’s latest film ‘The Fabelmans’. La Ciotat has an important place in the history of cinema, with the Lumière brothers showing one of their first films, “L’Arrivée du Train en Gare de La Ciotat”. The town is also proud to be the birthplace of the popular French game of petanque, or “jeu de boules”.

Discovering bliss at Île de Riou

As we anchored our boat in the Calanque de Monastério on Île de Riou, we were immediately struck by the breathtaking beauty that surrounded us. The water was so darn clear, the rock formations stood like sentinels of nature’s grandeur and don’t even get me started on the seagulls. They were like our own little welcoming committee, their calls filling the air. Nature was definitely showing off!

With uncontainable excitement, we swiftly launched the dinghy into the water, ready to conquer new territories. As our feet touched the sandy shore, we were greeted by a delightful fragrance of flowers and herbs. Two paths beckoned – one leading to the far end of the island and the other up to the top of a rock. The paths were lined with gull egg nests, so we had to walk carefully and be considerate of the nesting colony.

The next day, we hopped into our dinghy like adventurous pirates. In the far distance, a dark wave caught our eye, accompanied by playful fins breaking the surface. Our first encounter with dolphins in the Mediterranean!

Family quality time in the bustling urban playground of Marseille

As we arrived at our destination, we found ourselves in the heart of the lively Vieux-Port in Marseille, France’s second most populous city. Our location provided an ideal vantage point to experience the city’s ambiance. However, we soon discovered that a massive demonstration was underway. Initially peaceful, the atmosphere turned somber when piles of garbage lining the streets were set on fire. The local fire brigade tackled the trashy inferno quite quickly. Oh, the things you encounter when exploring the world!

Our true motive for being in the city of Marseille was to reunite with my sister, brother-in-law, and niece. Despite the shortness of their visit, we savoured every precious moment. Together, we strolled through the streets of Marseille, pausing intermittently to stuff our mouths with all sorts of culinary delights. The evening found us gathered on our boat, engaged in heartfelt conversations while eating delicious pizza. The following morning, we shared a farewell breakfast in their hotel, bidding them adieu with a tinge of sadness.

The next days, the mighty Mistral forced us to seek refuge on Île Ratonneau. We then left for a spontaneous detour to the vibrant land of Spain (more on that one in another blog) before heading back to Port Napoleon in France.

Connecting with fellow sailors in Port Napoleon

April 2023.
After exploring mainland Spain, we find ourselves docked back at good old Port Napoleon, where our journey began. We’re here to have our bimini and spray hood installed.

The warm welcome we received upon our arrival reminded us that sailing is more than just floating around. It’s all about the people we meet and the laughs we share along the way.
After a 29-hour sailing adventure, we were greeted by Lesley and Misja from sailing vessel Miles for an evening of refreshing drinks and delicious pasta carbonara. Over the following days, these two seafaring souls proved to be active listeners and an invaluable source of advice. We confided in them about our concerns regarding the mysterious propeller noise and other boat misfortunes, and they were like the wind in our sails, guiding us with their wise words.

Our return to Port Napoleon also brought the joy of reuniting with old acquaintances. We were thrilled to encounter Pinoseed, whose journey had been halted for months along the Saône. Finally able to continue their adventure, Peter, together with Michi, navigated the Rhône and made their way to the Mediterranean. We cheered their arrival and had a post-lock pizza feast. The gods of the sea even blessed us with a beautiful rainbow and a mesmerising sunset that served as the perfect backdrop to this memorable reunion.

One of the most remarkable aspects of our sailing journey has been the incredible people we meet along the way. Each encounter becomes an opportunity to exchange stories, find inspiration and receive much-needed support. It’s like a floating circus of characters, each with their own wild plans. But amidst all the madness, there’s a sense of camaraderie that binds us sailors together.

While our journey has been filled with joyful reunions and meaningful encounters, we must not forget the challenges that occasionally arise. The unresolved propeller problem, manifesting a strange thumping noise, continued to perplex us. And not much later, the true nature of this mystery got revealed.

Exotic island vibes at Porquerolles

In the midst of the French Riviera, a marvellous treasure lay hidden. Behold, Porquerolles, a tiny island adorned with shimmering turquoise waters and breathtaking landscapes.

As we dropped anchor off the coast of Porquerolles, an enchanting aroma tickled our nostrils. The air was filled with a heavenly blend of olive trees, eucalyptus, cedar trees and violets. We rowed our dinghy to a nearby sandy beach, where we went for a walk, relishing in a natural aromatherapy session. Porquerolles is an island that begs to be explored, with well-marked footpaths leading through olive groves, vineyards and breathtaking viewpoints. You can also find steep cliffs, sandy beaches and a vibrant village adorned with colourful houses and exotic plants.

Despite the sporadic downpours, we made the most of our time at anchor. When the sun peeked through the clouds, we ventured into the refreshing water with snorkelling gear and our SUP board.

Our turbulent journey to Corsica

Our journey from Porquerolles to Corsica began with optimism and excitement, with the promise of reaching Ajaccio. Little did we know that our voyage would be fraught with an unexpected mechanical hiccup.

As our boat embarked on its grand adventure from the sunny shores of Porquerolles, it found itself in a jellyfish-infested situation. Thousands of jellyfish were surrounding our El Burro. We couldn’t resist the temptation to capture one in a bucket. But fear not, dear readers, we soon discovered that these gelatinous creatures (Velella Velella’s) were harmless, unlike their notorious cousin, the Portuguese Man-o-War.

With the wind too weak for sailing, we reluctantly relied on our engine. Just when we thought we had settled into a monotonous voyage, around 32 nautical miles in, our mechanical companion decided to serenade us with a cacophony of strange sounds, prompting us to shut it down and unfurl the sails. Embracing the limited wind available, we bravely ventured forth, torn between continuing to Corsica or turning back to the French coast. Ultimately, we chose to continue our journey, unaware of the challenges that laid ahead.

As the wind died down, towering three-meter waves engulfed our boat. The sails decided it was the perfect time to show off their impressive flapping skills, while the violent rocking on the waves raised concerns about the integrity of the mast and stays. We quickly realised that continuing in such a chaotic symphony of discomfort and danger was simply out of the question. After careful consideration, we made the difficult decision to turn back towards the French coast. The prospect of either sailing 35 miles back or enduring another 85 miles to Corsica weighted heavily on us. As darkness fell and the wind disappeared, we found ourselves stuck in the middle of nowhere. Despite the challenges, the appearance of a family of dolphins, playing in the moonlight, reminded us of the beauty of sailing.

With the sunrise came a renewed gust of wind, propelling us towards our destination. Hoisting the sails, we made steady progress at a modest pace. Finally, at the stroke of 4 pm, we arrived at our destination, ready to tackle the mechanical issue that had plagued us throughout our journey.

Engine madness at Hyeres

With the expertise of a mechanic, we learned that the sneaky culprit behind the knocking noise and wobbly vibrations was none other than the damper plate. Due to its deteriorated condition, this little troublemaker failed to do its one job – to absorb shocks and vibrations.

Greg dove into the depths of the engine room, armed with determination and a trusty toolbox. He skillfully removed the gearbox and unscrewed the worn-out damper plate. Almost immediately, the extent of the damage became apparent – the rubber that should have absorbed the shocks had worn out completely. We wasted no time in procuring a new damper plate from a nearby Volvo Penta dealer, albeit with a brief wait for its arrival.

The unexpected stay in Hyeres provided us with an opportunity to unload our bikes and go for a picturesque ride up to La Madrague, where we embarked on the Sentiers du littoral trail. This path offered panoramic views of the sea and the neighbouring islands.

Luckily, the damper plate arrived without delay. Greg swiftly installed the new part in the engine room, turning our once noisy vessel into a smooth operator. With the issue resolved, our journey to Corsica could finally resume.

And now for real…

Setting sail with the wind at around 18 knots, we made promising progress, our boat danced across the sea at 5-6 knots. However, the waves posed a constant challenge. It was like riding a wild rollercoaster that was determined to give us a serious case of sea legs!

When the wind eventually subsided, leaving us in a state of uneasy stillness, the motion of the boat became disorienting, causing discomfort. Despite the tumultuous seas, we were happy to see the presence of the spray of a whale and a pod of dolphins.

As nightfall descended, sleep became elusive amidst the constant noise and rocking of the boat. The alarm clock abruptly ended a brief period of rest, signalling the beginning of another watch. A storm cloud and its lightning pursued us, yet we narrowly escaped its clutches.

With the sun rising, the outline of Corsica emerged in the distance.
As we dropped our anchor, fatigue and excitement mingled within us. The interior of the boat was chaos, but we surrendered to exhaustion, drifting into a deep slumber.

Our short stay in Corsica

As we dashed towards our rendezvous with family in the South of Italy, we barely had a moment to catch our breath on the charming island of Corsica. With our ambitious travel plans slightly changed thanks to a broken damper plate, we had to trim our time in Corsica.

We first visited Ajaccio, Corsica’s largest city and the birthplace of none other than the legendary French military leader, Napoleon Bonaparte. We moored our boat at Port Tinno Rossi with the most bluest, greenest water we’ve ever laid eyes upon. Napoleon is prancing around every corner in Ajaccio. The many street and place names, statues and bistros bearing the emperor’s name made it quite impossible to avoid this infamous historical figure.

Afterwards we set off for Plage du Taravu, a picturesque beach where the countryside of Corsica revealed its natural beauty. The scenery was overwhelming with an empty golden sandy brach and the greenest landscape you could imagine. As we strolled along, we couldn’t help but feel like we were in a countryside fairytale, complete with cows, fluttering swallows, flowers showing off their vibrant hues and mountains standing triumphantly in the background. We walked until the grey clouds changed the sky. It was time to row back to our boat. The next day we took the SUP to a dead-end inlet river.

Leaving Plage du Taravu behind, we sailed to Île Piana, known for its breathtakingly clear blue waters. Arriving at Île Piana, we couldn’t believe our eyes as we marvelled at the most transparant azure waters we’ve ever seen. Once the strong winds and rain stopped, we wasted no time to dive into the water with our snorkelling gear.

Leaving France behind

We made lasting memories in France. From our inland waterway adventure to the French Coast to Corsica. We saw charming towns and idyllic coastal villages, breathtaking nature and met the most amazing people.

We were ready for the next chapter of our journey… Italy, with Sardinia as the first country. A new language, cultural treasures and culinary delights awaited us.